Hollywood Costuming

http://static.tvtropes.org/pmwiki/pub/images/princess_gwendolyn.jpg
The bodice, hairstyle, makeup, and tan lines are more accurate for 1955 than 1255.

A Sub-Trope of Hollywood History related to period dress. Due to factors ranging from budget to Artistic License, period costuming in shows and movies is just downright inaccurate half the time — and that's not even counting instances of Reality Is Unrealistic where there's a justification for the anachronistic elements. This extends well beyond clothing and accessories: period-accurate hair and makeup are even harder to find in Hollywood.

Sometimes costumes are accurate to one historical era or style, but not the particular one relevant to the story. Sometimes the costumes have more to do with the contemporary fashions of the production rather than those of the story's setting. Sometimes the costume designers will just decide to throw historical accuracy to the wind and go for creativity and visual impact instead — this often happens with Pimped-Out Dress scenes, especially if the historically accurate version wouldn't create the right impression on the audience.

This is actually Older Than Print. Up until the Enlightenment, most Western European visual artists had little to no idea what ancient Middle Eastern or Greco-Roman clothing looked like — and would likely have been deeply scandalized if they did — resulting in hundreds of Biblical or mythological characters in full medieval or Renaissance dress. In Shakespeare's time, theater troupes used the cast-offs of wealthy patrons as costume wardrobes, recycling outfits across many productions. Victorian reprints of Jane Austen's novels often had new illustrations depicting the characters in modest Victorian clothing rather than the comparatively skimpy light muslin dresses of the Regency era.

Note that to count an example must take place in a Real Life historical era, not a neo-historical future or a Fantasy Counterpart Culture.

A Super Trope to Gorgeous Period Dress.

Often overlaps with Fashion Dissonance, Present Day Past (when the sets, props, and costuming are not historical at all), Costume Porn, and Fashions Never Change. Some instances may be caused by Newer Than They Think on the costumers' part. Extreme cases can lead to WTH, Costuming Department?.

Not to be confused with Hollywood Dress Code or Hollywood Style.

Examples:

Comics

  • In Astérix, the Gaulish women conform more to 1950s expectations of gender roles, with feminine bias-cut and fishtail skirts (with some teenage girl background characters wearing circle skirts), than to relatively unisex historical Gaulish dress, where the main difference between the genders was that women's tunics were a bit longer. One story hinges on a Straw Feminist liberating the village women by persuading them to wear trousers rather than skirts — historically, Armorican women and men both wore trousers under layers of tunics for maximum warmth and comfort in a cold, damp climate. This is lampshaded in a strip drawn by Uderzo for Elle magazine in which the narration describes historically accurate Gaulish fashion while Geriatrix's wife is posing about looking like a 1950s movie star. She even has a beehive hairstyle, while all the other Gaulish women have historically accurate (but timeless) long or plaited hair.
    • Cacofonix's slowly evolving design caused him to end up with something of a 1970s retro-50s hairstyle around the time that this was happening in Real Life, but this is definitely intentional and based on his personality. Almost definitely unintentional is that the shoes worn by the Gauls would be more at home in the 11th Century.
    • Used for deliberate stereotyping in other cases:
      • Asterix's Britannic cousin Anticlimax wears baggy tweed trousers (as the historical Britons did) but his shoes have long ties that wrap tightly around his legs up to below the knee, giving his trousers the distinctive shape of plus-fours.
      • A Turkish woman in Asterix and the Magic Carpet is dressed in a burqa, more than 700 years before Islam arrived in Anatolia.

Film
  • The trop picture comes from The Court Jester, which is a spoof of Medieval Swashbucklers right down to the Dior New Look princess dresses.
  • Gone with the Wind is a fairly good example of Shown Their Work in terms of costuming (especially by 1950s standards), but Vivien Leigh's makeup as Scarlett O'Hara is obviously mid-20th century with the thick cream foundation and high arched eyebrows.
  • This picture of Rose Hobart as Anne Neville (with Basil Rathbone as Richard III) in 1939's Tower of London. Mostly it's that Nice Hat. Heart shaped headresses are known as Mary Stuart caps for a reason and Mary wasn't even born until after Anne was dead and buried.
  • The movie adaption of Anne of the Thousand Days has Genevieve Bujold wearing French hoods as 60's era headbands. For the record a French hood is supposed to have a bag attached to the back to cover the hair, and they were kept on by ties that knotted under the chin. The knots are sometimes left out in paintings of the day.
  • The Carry On periodic films had their fun with this trope. An obvious example is all of Charles Hawtrey's characters wearing the same Harry Potter-style spectacles.
  • The Laurence Olivier version of Pride and Prejudice dresses all the women in mid-19th century hoop skirts, instead of the shift dresses worn by Jane Austen forty years earlier. According to legend, the dresses were recycled from Gone with the Wind, the setting they're actually appropriate for.
  • 300 uses the clothing conventions of ancient Greek artwork rather than period-accurate fashions, as does the original graphic novel. This results in more nudity than even the Greeks would be quite comfortable with.
  • In the 1947 film version of Good News (set in The Roaring Twenties), the men's costumes are roughly period-appropriate, but the women's hair and clothes are contemporary.
  • There was, at one point, an exhibit at the Los Angeles County Art Museum dedicated to Hollywood "historical" costuming, showing actual costumes from various productions. The three Cleopatra VII costumes (1917, Theda Bara; 1939, Claudette Colbert; and 1963, Elizabeth Taylor) were particularly fun to compare. Claudette Colbert's version is the least inaccurate.
  • In Auntie Mame (at least the first film adaptation), many outfits don't even try to look like the 20s or 30s.
  • The plot of the Doris Day film Tea for Two revolves around the stock market crash of 1929, but the fashions are vintage 1950. Made worse by the fact that the movie opens and closes years later with Doris's children going through a trunk of old clothing and laughing at their parents' Roaring Twenties outfits, which they never actually wore onscreen!
  • Pocketful Of Miracles
  • Ralphie's mother in "A Christmas Story" sports a 70s style perm despite the story being set in the 40s. And that's even weirder when you remember that the movie was filmed in 1982, when the Farrah Fawcett cut was just beginning to fall out of style.
  • Braveheart, mostly for the Scots. Specifically, they wear the belted plaid, a piece of clothing that would not develop until several centuries later, and in a manner which is entirely ahistorical — one historian described it as the equivalent of Cromwell's Roundheads wearing modern business suits with the jackets back-to-front.
  • Every woman in The Ten Commandments has obviously 1950s hair and makeup.
  • Similarly, despite the accurate period costumes, the women in Meet Me in St. Louis (made in 1944, set in 1904) have 1940s hairstyles, although at least many such styles like pompadours were inspired by turn-of-the-century Gibson Girl fashions.
  • Pick a Dracula movie. Any Dracula movie.
    • 1931's Dracula can mostly be excused from this: the whole story got a period update from The Gay Nineties to the time the story was filmed, which today may seem odd but at the time was simply Pragmatic Adaptation along the lines of moving a story set in the 1960s to the 2010s. By this logic, Mina and Lucy's bobbed haircuts, heavy makeup and long narrow dresses make sense. What doesn't work, though, is Dracula's ancient "brides" having similarly sleek, short hair.
    • The Hammer Horror series (and unrelated spiritual successors like The Fearless Vampire Killers) are all apparently set in Überwald circa 1965. Try finding one of these films where the women's hairstyles aren't some architectural combination of Gibson Girl poufs and 1960s half-updone bouffants and their dresses aren't some weird gestalt silhouette that only existed in sixties impressions of the nineteenth century.
      • The Setting Update Dracula A.D. 1972 inverts this. Drac's latest victim drifts about in a very-chic-by-early-70s-standards combination fluffy bob/long-in-the-back haircut and a standard diaphanous pseudo-Victorian shift.
    • Bram Stoker's Dracula is a weird case. Lucy and Mina wear painstakingly carefully designed late-Victorian gowns about 80% of the time, with appropriate hairstyles to match, even when the costumes are ugly by modern standards (Lucy's direly frumpy wedding dress comes to mind). But when the Rule of Symbolism flies in, accuracy goes straight out the window, resulting in a few costumes that are just off the wall.
  • Pick any movie set in the 1600s or 1700s and made up until the sixties and early seventies, and you'll mostly find dresses with very modest cleavage or no cleavage at all. 17th and 18th century fashions were obsessed with pushed-up boobs and massive cleavage — for a brief period during the 18th century, some ladies of the French court even exposed one breast completely to look fashionable. One modest 18th century woman, Frances Burney, chose to have her portrait painted with what was then a very conservative neckline ... and it's still more daring than most of what you see in 1940s movies.
  • Mostly averted in Doctor Zhivago, but all the women have very 60s hair.
  • In the Clash of the Titans remake, the Greek Gods have Medieval European suits of armor. Yes, from the High Middle Ages, and complete with armor plates. The Greek Goddesses and the civilians wear Hellenic period costumes, instead of the Mycenean or classical periods more appropriate to the subject matter, creating an overall Anachronism Stew.
  • In Roger Ebert's review of Spartacus, the film, he criticizes the hair and makeup of the female characters (especially that of the rich, spoiled Roman women at the beginning of the film, who looked like they stepped out of a 1960's hair salon.)
  • You'd think the Titanic (1997) had sailed and sunk in 1997 based on Jack's hair in the movie.
  • Deliberately done in Tangled, where Mother Gothel's wardrobe is clearly several centuries out of date compared to everyone else's clothing, hinting that she's been around much longer than she appears.
  • The costume designer for A Knight's Tale clearly didn't bother with research - fair enough considering the (a)historical character of the movie.
  • Parodied in Time Bandits. Our heroes discover that Robin Hood's Merry Men are disgusting, filthy dwellers of The Dung Ages. Then Robin himself emerges in a spotless lincoln green tunic and tights straight out of an old Errol Flynn movie.
  • Disney's Sleeping Beauty has Aurora in a dress that fits perfectly into 1950s high fashion, but bears only a passing resemblance to anything actually worn in the 1300s.
  • In Argo, the events of the film take place during 1980, but the characters wear tailored suits and fitted shirts that look very modern compared to the looser, boxier fit favored in the 80s. Even in moments when the film takes great pains to match the look and style of a 70s political thriller, some of the characters are dressed like they just walked in from a late-2010s runway show.
  • Frozen is supposedly set sometime in the early to mid 19th century, yet the skirts of both female leads' costumes don't even show a hint of crinoline. They either fall in tight folds that flounce nicely when moving, like Anna's ball gown, or straight down, like Elsa's coronation dress. A cut scene from an earlier draft of the movie showed the sisters together in a dressing room where Anna tries on a tight laced corset (as fashion standards of the actual time period dictated), possibly lampshading the physical features both Elsa and Anna display.
  • Susannah York's makeup and short, tousled hairstyle in Battle of Britain are clearly products of 1969, when the film was made, rather than 1940, when it was set.
  • In every film adaptation of The Great Gatsby, which is set in 1922, the fashions are almost always based on late 1920s hem lengths and waistlines, rather than the "streamlined Edwardian" gowns of the early 20s. Here is what women would have actually worn at Gatsby's mansion in 1922.
    • The 2013 adaptation pushes this even further with modernized depictions of the 1920s and heavy Art Deco motifs. The men's fashions are fairly accurate apart from the exceptionally skinny trousers — The Great Gatsby Wears Prada, if you will.
  • Jennifer Grey's permed hair in the 1963-set Dirty Dancing makes it hard for a new viewer to tell this ISN'T supposed to be the 80s.

Literature
  • When Thackeray was drawing the illustrations to his own novel, Vanity Fair, set in the Jane Austen era, he appended a note to the text explicitly stating, "I have not the heart to disfigure my heroes and heroines by costumes so hideous," (!) and so clothed them in the fashions of the years of the novel's serial publication (1847-1848).
    • Ironically, modern audiences generally find early Victorian fashion bizarre and unflattering compared to the much breezier styles of the Regency period.
  • In Harry Potter and the Philosopher's Stone, J. K. Rowling has "Nearly Headless Nick" wearing a ruff to hide the disjunction between his head and neck. Unfortunately, she states in Harry Potter and the Chamber of Secrets that Nick was executed in 1492, a good fifty years before ruffs came into style. The film versions depict Nick in the high style of the 1590s, a good hundred years after his supposed death; blame that on the first book as well, where Nick claimed that he'd been dead for "nearly four hundred years".

Live-Action TV
  • Dr. Quinn, Medicine Woman was guilty of this, although you'd hardly notice compared to all the OTHER historical inaccuracies in the show.
  • Debatable how accurate most of the costuming in Rome is, but the Egyptian costuming and sets were totally off. Egypt was a Hellenistic nation at the time, as was much of the Mediterranean after Alexander the Great's conquests. According to the director's commentary they were perfectly aware of the historical circumstances but chose to go for Rule of Cool, while at the same time trying hard to distance themselves from other well-known and stereotypical depictions of Egypt.
  • The costuming in The Tudors won an Emmy, but if you value your sanity do not claim it's historically accurate on any Internet re-enactment board or discussion list. The costumes were intended to provoke in the modern viewer the same feelings of arousal and scandal that Tudor court fashion produced in its own day.
  • On Charmed, there are occasionally scenes and episodes where the sisters travel to colonial Salem, or where people from that period come to the present. And there is a conspicuous amount of cleavage shown. Those puritans probably wouldn't have been exposing that much skin.
  • Practically every male in Little House on the Prairie had a 1970s hairstyle - shaggy mops for boys, perms on adult men. Women and girls had timeless braids or buns that avoided anachronism.
  • Some of Morgana's dresses on Merlin could be worn to a modern-day cocktail party without attracting much comment. Her costume emphasizes her magic and outsider status.
  • A minor, intentional one in Spartacus. The Romans wear authentic legionary uniforms, but a version that would not be adopted until 70 years after Spartacus' death. The developers knew this but decided to go with the later but more iconic look to make it feel more Rome-ish. Considering the already highly stylized nature of the series this is probably a good thing.
  • Every male on M*A*S*H had hair that was obviously 1970s street fashions, not 1950s military-issue.
  • Every girl on Hogan's Heroes had extremely 60's/70's hair and make up.
  • Same goes for much of the ladies' clothing in Upstairs Downstairs.
  • Happy Days: When the series started out, the characters wore 1950s fashions and hairstyles, but by the fifth season (1977-1978), the cast looked like they were indeed from the 1970s but somehow got warped back to the 1950s. This trend continued into the 1980s, with the characters wearing hairstyles and clothing appropriate for the early MTV era rather than the early 1960s.
  • Averted with Mad Men: the costume designer Janie Bryant worked very hard to get the clothes of the era just right for every character's taste, social class, sensibilities, age, and occupation — along with fitting them to recurring themes in an episode. She even insisted on period-accurate women's underwear to create the proper bodyshaping (those aren't spanx or elastic pantyhose, those are are actual girdles and bras constructed in the costume department).

Pinball

Theatre
  • In theater more than a century or so older, there wasn't even an effort to be accurate in the costuming. You would see Cleopatra in petticoats and an ermine cape and Mark Anthony in a doublet and tights.
  • Christine's frizzy '80s Hair in the original production of The Phantom of the Opera (though, that could be an homage to the 1925 silent film too, which would not necessarily still be this, as Mary Philbin's hair was naturally that wavy and was up for most of the film), although the visual designer of the original production stated it was supposed to be styled after the hairstyles seen in pre-Raphaelite paintings. Over the years, this has evolved into much tidier ringlets.

Video Games
  • Assassin's Creed: Brotherhood is generally pretty good about having correct period clothing. Well, except when it comes to underwear.
  • Metal Gear Solid 3: Snake Eater is set in the 1960s and mostly accurate, particularly with EVA's distinctively 60s hair and makeup, and Para-Medic's various outfits being period accurate. However, there is no way Naked Snake would be able to get away with wearing his hair like that in 1964. This was an intentional decision by the creators to make him look more like Solid Snake, his clone.

Multiple media
  • Because the King Arthur legend kept getting more and more embellished all through the Middle Ages and up to the present day, adaptations almost always depict the characters wearing properly impressive medieval armor and clothing that would not have existed in the 6th century. Most do restrict themselves to chain mail rather than plate, but some — notably Excalibur — go for shiny full plate by way of Rule of Cool (after all, it's not as if historical accuracy is really an issue in most King Arthur stories).
  • Many depictions of Roman soldiers actually have them looking similar to Greek hoplites. The most popular Hollywood article is the Attic helmet, whereas Roman legionaries mostly used the Gallic helmet. Also, the primary weapon of legionaries was the sword; the commonly depicted javelin/spear was a sidearm. Compare this to this.
    • More technically, Roman Legionnaires are usually portrayed in their iconic Lorica segmentata, when for most of their history they used either the Lorica hamata (mail) of the Republican period, or the Lorica squamata (scale armour) of the Late Imperial period. Additionally, they are usually depicted wearing the tunic typical of Mediterranean climates, while those in Northern provinces such as Britain and the German border often adopted barbarian trousers. This is largely because the Roman golden age, the "Pax Romana" took place when this was standard equipment, but it becomes a blatant case of artistic license when it is used in stories set in the time of Gaius Julius Caesar and Augustus, the armour having not been introduced until 9BC, thirty-five years after Caesar's death.
  • Arabian Nights Days nearly always features a mishmash of Middle Eastern clothing, not all of which would have actually been worn at the same time in the same place. Of course, there's very little information available of what people in ancient and medieval Arabia would really have been wearing, but there are definitely clothes that can be pointed to as anachronisms. There is no room for accuracy in Instant Ali Baba Kits.


http://tvtropes.org/pmwiki/pmwiki.php/Main/HollywoodCostuming