Super late replies:
The TTA is factory-stock, with Corvette brakeparts stolen from the Chevy parts bin. 1LE option code. It also has the WS 6 performance suspension parts, which were beefier sway bars and such. Base-model Firebirds has less-than-stiff springs and thinner swaybars.
It also has the Borg-Warner 9-bolt rear differential, which has four spider gears versus the two that the GM Coprorate 10-bolt rear had. Includes limited-slip, so I need an addititve if/when I change the gear oil out. The aftermarket includes a ton of parts for the 10-bolt, but the 9-bolt is pretty scant. Not that that's a problem, since the 9-bolt can handle far more torque and power in its stock form before needing to be replaced. 9-inch Ford rearends are a popular replacement option for those who make track cars out of them.
The 200R4 transmission is a ligher variant of the more common 700R4, and has a shallower 1st-to-2nd gear difference. When I owned my 1988 Trans Am GTA, I didn't like the wide ratio between 1st and 2nd (although it was a nice car that I regret selling).
The LC 2 3.8liter V6 is actually not that bad for gas if you don't lay into it much. Almost 20 miles per gallon was had once by me, although it probably needs a tuneup. This is in contrast to the L98 5.7 V8 Tuned-port that was in the GTA, that got about 18 MPG on a good day - but the LC 2 needs premium fuel, since it's turbocharged. Pre-ignition is very hard on engines, and can result in melting pistons, bore walls and cylinder heads.
I've noticed, lately, that if I'm at idle and at operating temperature (closed-loop operation), the check engine light will eventually come on. Driving off from whatever I was stopped at (long stoplight or drivethrough) will clear the light and the car drives normally. The idle will stumble a bit as (I'm guessing) the car goes into limp-home mode.
Probably due to my monkeying with the Idle Fuel settings on the Translator module for the aftermarket Mass Air Flow sensor - the stock MAF crapped out and it was cheaper to buy an LS 1 MAF, adapters and a Translator module than it was to buy an OEM MAF. Little selector knobs allow me to tweak idle fuel tables on the unit by tricking the computer into detectng more air than what's really going into the engine, so it adds a corresponding increase in fuel through the injectors.
I should probably set that back to stock levels and see what happens.
Happiness is zero-gee with a sinus cold.I'm going to re-awaken the thread with one of the most iconic cars from the BTCC: The Volvo 850 Estate
@pvtnum11: Have you considered going with a Walbro 255 fuel pump and bigger injectors? Also, what's up with import tuners going with LS 1 swaps? I mean, I know why, but the way I see it, you might as well just get a muscle car if you're going to put a 5.7 liter in an import and recondition it for muscle car-ish settings. I've seen some great LS 1 import hybrid setups, but it mostly seems like more trouble than it's worth.
@My SW 20: I might be able to keep the Voxx wheels I have on the car because I found a website that sells hub-centric adapters. While I'm at it, I might also replace the brakes and rotors while the wheels are off. The stock Toyota shifter knob won't fit on my short-throw shifter, so I'll have to get a new one. Here's one I have picked out.
I tried to find a 12.5 mm shifter at a salvage lot, but the closest one was from a Honda Accord, and it was too long at the shaft.
Cool car. Volvo makes pretty decent cars, but aesthetics aren't really their forte. That's one of the few things that keeps me from praising them more.
edited 31st Mar '13 5:57:55 PM by Aprilla
Aprilla: Yes, improving the fuel system is on the list, but only if I decide to shovel more boost through the engine. Running lean is a bad thing, moreso on boosted applications. Since I run stock boost levels on pretty much stock hardware, replacing the fuel pump with a Walbro would be only if the existing pump crapped out on me.
The LS1 is, as you probably know, a pretty nice piece of engineering. Lighter than older first-gen Small-block Chevy engines due to having sleeved aluminum blocks and aluminum heads, they're stout and they can be rebuilt to handle boost. They also have a much higher redline than older Chevy V8's in stock form. Even in stock form, you can toss a few PSI into them. Grab them with the computer and wiring harness, and it's a relatively simple matter to shoehorn it into the engine bay of the car of choice.
I'll stick with my horribly outdated flat-lifter pushrod V6, though, despite it redlining at a mere 5200 RPM (but I've never spun it over 4000, ever). If I had a run-of-the-mill Third-gen, I'd contemplate two options: A built turbocharged Buick V6, or an LS1.
Volvo's are nice. Ugly, so they make good sleepers. I had wanted a 740 when I was younger.
edited 3rd Apr '13 1:52:52 PM by pvtnum11
Happiness is zero-gee with a sinus cold.Can it be done by hand, or you really need that power tool which name's I forget?
Also, I was cruising about a store for drying clothes and I was wondering, is soap specifically for car washing a scam or just plain not worth it?
I've always been told to use dish soap in a bucket of water, and I guess it worked pretty fine so far, but I'm still a bit curious.
I haven't heard or read anything against using dish washing soap, but I'm not too keen on the idea.
It would probably be better to use car washing soap because it has chemical combinations designed specifically for automotive surfaces and automotive paint.
As for the application process, that's up to you. When I had my Tiburon GT, I washed it by hand as often as possible so I could manually access every crevice and tight spot. Pressure washers aren't as surgically precise. You can check your local auto parts store for a drill-based sponge ball that will make the job easier, and it can used to spot-clean the wheels as well.
Ford Focus 2009
◊. Pretty much exactly the one in the pic, down to color. I just have different mags.
Dunno if any of you follow NASCAR, but I just found out that Dick Trickle apparently killed himself on Thursday.
I was never really a regular follower of NASCAR, but his was one of the few names I regularly recognized when mentioned. Admittedly, at least part of that was from puerile jokes about his name, though.
I'll read up on it. I'm not familiar with him.
Possible explanation for the difference between "motor" and "engine"
Dept. of Energy website on fuel economy
You can use this website to calculate your gas mileage. It's very useful.
edited 23rd May '13 9:29:15 AM by Aprilla
We were talking about motorbikes in the college thread and figured it might be an idea to move it here. The safety worry is a fair one, especially in the US where your roads are a lot more dangerous for motorbikes. The big thing is to always wear the armour, I'm talking a jacket with armoured inserts and leather trousers on top of whatever you're wearing naturally, plus gloves, boots and obviously a decent helmet. I've been in a multitude of small accidents (mainly going over on bad turns and once being bit by a car at super low speed) and the only lasting injury I have is a tinny little mark on my knee from one time when I wasn't wearing armoured gear.
As for big roads, I can't go on motorways yet but I go on some big A roads and the best thing to do is just stick in the first two lanes, cars will often be faster than you when the road is clear so stay out of there way. With bad weather you simply have to make a judgment call, in wet you should be okay as long as you know what you're doing, in high winds you just been to avoid high bridges and make sure you're not ridding close to another vehicle for if the wind pushes you around, and as for snow, don't, just don't.
“And the Bunny nails it!” ~ Gabrael “If the UN can get through a day without everyone strangling everyone else so can we.” ~ Cyran
I've never been hit by a car on any of my motorcycles, but I did have a minor fall when I crossed some black ice when I was on my way to school some years ago in my undergraduate days. I was a year-round rider because my motorcycle was my only source of transportation. Having to ride in adverse weather conditions sucked on some days, but it was an experience that made me a lot stronger.
The only bike that was seriously wrecked under my ownership was my Suzuki Katana that a former friend wrecked. The moral of the story is to not lend your bike to someone else unless you really trust them and they have demonstrated themselves as a competent rider. My rule as of now is that nearly no one touches my bike whenever I have one. I might be willing to bend the rules if I've seen you ride and/or we're in an emergency that requires you to ride it it, but I'm not a fan of letting just anyone take it out for a joyride. Don't ever let anyone try to sweet-talk you into "just taking it around the corner". Even if the person wanting to ride it is super-competent, I get very defensive about it.
edited 2nd Sep '13 4:32:30 PM by Aprilla

Jezza Clarkson said the first gen Focus was better than the second gen, go figure.