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Your experiences with CFLs and other efficient light bulbs:

 76 Wulf, Tue, 24th May '11 10:08:31 PM from Louisiana
Gotta trope, dood!
So, why is flickering light bad for you?
They lost me. Forgot me. Made you from parts of me. If you're the One, my father's son, what am I supposed to be?
 77 del diablo, Wed, 25th May '11 2:25:27 AM from Somewher in mid Norway
Den harde nordmann
Because the eye works in a really funny way.
Basically you get a constant acceleration change in rate of perception, which really tires you out over time.
You do not even need to notice it for it to happen either.
A guy called dvorak is tired. Tired of humanity not wanting to change to improve itself. Quite the sad tale.
[up][up][up]

Yes, incandescents do flicker when on AC, and whether or not you can see it depends on the cycle rate of the AC. Set it to say, 10, or 25, and you can see it on an incandescent.

Put any of them on DC, and no flicker. LED, Incandescent, Fluorescent. No change in voltage, no flicker. Or set the hz rate fast enough, and your body won't even have the ability to process the change. The latter option is what is done in an electronic ballast.

Note, all of this is assuming an otherwise steady voltage, irregular voltages can obviously have issues that cause noticeable flicker on all lamp types.

edited 25th May '11 4:47:35 AM by blueharp

 
 79 Wolf 1066, Wed, 25th May '11 5:22:48 AM from New Zealand Relationship Status: In my bunk
Wolf1066
All my lights are CF Ls now except for the flood lamps outside the front and garage doors.

They all come on instantly but at a lower output then build up to full brightness - I don't find this a problem as the light is sufficient to enter and navigate a room and by the time I'm ready to do anything that needs full light, they've come up to "speed".

I've had a couple of instances with dual switch set ups where the light would give a regular weak flicker after being turned off. We discovered that it only happened if you turned off the lights in a particular way (like if switch A was down and B was up (light on) and you switched B down to turn the light off it would flicker but if you switched the light off by switching A up it wouldn't flicker).

I actually like the "warm up" period of CF Ls - I can turn on the light after my eyes have adjusted to the dark and I don't get blinded. By the time the light's warmed up to full glow, my eyes have adjusted to it.

We've got a mix of "cold" white and "warmer" more incandescent-like CF Ls. I don't mind the cold white as I find it easier for reading - I find it near impossible to read a book by incandescent light. Even a very powerful incandescent (over 100W). A 60W-equivalent CFL is fine to read by.
Dangerously Genre Savvy since ages ago...
 80 Deboss, Wed, 25th May '11 5:37:10 AM from Awesomeville Texas
I see the Awesomeness.
A physics IPC teacher I had showed it to us by attaching a bulb to a long cord and swinging the cord at the proper speed to get it to have a blank spot in the circle.
El Cid
CF Ls are definitely the way of the interim future - as has been said, LED's are going to take over, but not until the prices get down a bit more. I bought a 6-pack of CFL's for $13. A single LED light was going for $40.

It takes some looking for, but I did find CFL's with warmer light and instant start-up times. The strange thing is... you know the covered CF Ls, that are designed to look more like a bulb? For some reason they took over a minute to get up to decent brightness; when you flick the switch, they barely light up anything. But the swirly ones worked immediately. Luckily they are all in fixtures that face upwards so I'm not worrying about the bulbs looking weird.

Also, we found that the cheap dollar-store CFL's are good for nothing but pure white light, which may be fine for offices but doesn't work to make living rooms homey. -_-

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